I woke up in a fog.  My thoughts were immediately centered on the sensation in my right knee.  I remembered where I should be and that was exactly where I was.  I was in a hospital bed at Indiana Orthopaedic Hospital.  I had staples in my right leg from four inches above my knee to four inches below my knee.  I was told that the total knee replacement had gone well and now it was up to me to make it work.  It was Wednesday, November 19th, 2008.  At some point on that day, as I started on my road to recovery, I made it a goal that before November 2009 rolled around, the day would come when I would return to the summit of Mt. LeConte in the Great Smoky Mountains.

On Monday, August 24th, 2009 that day came.  After nine months of anticipation, therapy, exercise and training I stood at the AT trailhead at Newfound Gap.  We had left the truck at the Rainbow Falls trailhead and Erik, of A Walk In The Woods, had shuttled us to Newfound Gap.  As I looked around I could see our destination, the summit of Mt. LeConte.  I could also see where the path would lead us; looping around Anakeesta Knob and onto the Boulevard beyond.  Wasting no time Stephen and I bid farewell to Erik, took the trailhead pictures and by 7:53AM we were on the Appalachian Trail headed for the junction with the Boulevard Trail.

The first 1.7 miles of the AT was fairly steep but there were numerous vistas on either side of the trail giving us good reasons to stop, look around and catch our breath.   By the time we reached the junction with Sweat Heifer, the path had leveled out and the last mile to the Boulevard junction was an easy walk.  At the junction we took our first sitting rest to prepare ourselves for the 5-plus miles that lay ahead. 

Leaving the junction we were a little surprised that the trail continued uphill, but after passing the spur trail to the Jumpoff the path went sharply downhill losing 507 feet of elevation over the next 8 tenths of a mile.  This section of trail provided many vistas on either side.  At one of these lookouts we were able to see the rock slide we would have to cross below Myrtle Point.  Before long we made a sharp right hand turn around Anakeesta Knob and were soon on a knife edged ridge with steep drop-offs on either side.

At 6.2 miles from Newfound Gap the trail began a steep uphill trek that would not end until we reached the 6,593 foot summit at High Top.  The large rock slide mentioned earlier was at the 7 mile mark.  It provided a flat place to sit, so we took off our backpacks and rested for a while before starting our final push to the top.  The final half mile climb to High Top was very steep, very rocky and very exhausting.  After passing the rock cairn on the summit we were grateful for the gravity assist over the last 4 tenths of a mile and we finally stumbled into the lodge compound at 3:00PM.

The trail profile tells the story best.  The hike had been 8.2 miles long, with 4.5 climbing miles and 3.7 descending miles.  While the elevation gain from Newfound Gap was only 1,330 feet, actual climbing elevation was 4,597 feet and descending elevation was 3,267 feet.  And while the average trail grade was 19%, many sections were over 30% with at least one section over 50%.  The Boulevard can be defined in several ways.  It is long, has many ups and downs and has many terrific views.  However, easy is not a word that can be associated with this trail.

After checking into our room in lodge 3, we went to the dining hall for some hot chocolate and we sat a spell in the rocking chairs while visiting with other lodge guests.  Not long after we arrived at the lodge, the rain started falling and it was obvious that a hike to Cliff Top to view the sunset would be futile.  After dinner I visited for awhile with Rex and Rosalie, a very nice couple from Cincinnati.  By 8:00PM I retired to my bunk to allow my tired muscles to rest in preparation for the hike down the mountain.

I woke up in a fog.  My thoughts were immediately centered on the sensation in my right knee.  I remembered where I should be and that was exactly where I was.  I was in a bunk bed in lodge 3 on top of Mt. LeConte.  My right knee was stiff and my left knee was not happy either.  Otherwise I felt good and well rested and was ready for our hike down Rainbow Falls Trail.  After breakfast we bought t-shirts, packed up, took the commemorative pictures and were on the trail by 8:50AM.

From the start Rainbow Falls Trail was a path of loose slippery rocks.  Stephen and I began keeping a tally of who slipped, slid, stumbled or twisted their ankle the most.  By the end of the hike I believe Stephen was one up on me.  I had been told that the rocks make this a tricky trail for a descent, and now I know it to be true.

Before reaching the half mile mark from the lodge there is an excellent view of Gatlinburg one mile of elevation below the summit of the mountain.  At the half mile mark Bullhead Trail continues straight on a gentle easy slope to Cherokee Orchard.  Rainbow Falls Trail makes a sharp right turn and makes a steep, rocky and relentless decent to Cherokee Orchard.  We turned right.

The upper half of the trail had numerous views on either side of the trail.  At 1.2 miles there is the junction with Rocky Spur, a short side trail that I have been told leads to an excellent view.  This I did not investigate for myself.  The spur trail rejoined the main trail maybe 50 yards further down. At 3 miles from the lodge we started hearing Rainbow Falls, but even though the falls was just under 800 feet away, we walked another 7 tenths of a mile before reaching it.

The last 2.7 miles of this trail are less rocky, just as relentlessly downhill and very popular with day hikers.  Before the falls we had met just 10 people headed for the lodge.  Below the falls we met over 50 day hikers and 2 dogs walking to the falls and then returning to Cherokee Orchard. 

By shortly after 3:00PM we reached the truck that had been waiting for us at the Rainbow Falls trailhead.  Rainbow Falls Trail is 6.5 miles long with a relentless descent of 3,819 feet on a steep and exceedingly rocky 20% grade.  Many people like this trail for its views and consider it the most scenic of the 5 trails.  In my opinion Alum Cave is the most scenic, but this trail certainly can lay claim to the title. 

 I am very thankful that I was able to do this hike.  Yes it was hard and at times painful, but it was also fun and very rewarding.  Maybe I did choose the toughest trails for my return to the mountain, but that’s good.  Now I know that I, with my new knee, can once again climb to the top of one of America's truly great smoky mountains.